KOSMOS. Jewellery, Adornment and Textiles in the Aegean Bronze Age

Edited by Marie-Louise Nosch & Robert Laffineur

City: Liège

Year: 2012

Publisher: Peeters

Series: Aegaeum 33

Description: Hardback, x & 810 p., numerous b/w and colour illustrations, 29.4x20.8 cm

Proceedings of the 13th International Aegean Conference/13e Rencontre égéenne internationale, University of Copenhagen, Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, 21-26 April 2010

Abstract

The subject of KOSMOS in the Aegean Bronze Age includes jewellery, costume, aesthetics, body adornment, colours, pigments, and textiles. The reason for this choice of subject was our wish to merge the textile research carried out currently at the Danish National Research Foundation’s Centre for Textile Research, with the major research topic of Robert Laffineur, jewellery. This KOSMOS volume addresses the issues of textile production, costumes, dyes and pigments, colours, jewellery, aesthetics, body adornment, luxury and exotic items, gender and femininity/masculinity, as well as their social, religious, ideological, economic, technological, administrative and philological connections. In the Bronze Age, men, women and children would dress in garments, wear jewellery and adorn themselves to express their gender, age and status. 

Contents

Preface [vii]

Abbreviations [ix]

Keynote Address: Robert Laffineur, ‘For a Kosmology of the Aegean Bronze Age’ [3-21]

I. ASPECTS OF KOSMOS

Elizabeth J.W. Barber, ‘Some Evidence for Traditional Ritual Costume in the Bronze Age Aegean’ [25-29]

Jean-Claude Poursat, ‘Of Looms and Pebbles: Weaving at Minoan Coastal Settlements’ [31-34]

Andreas Vlachopoulos & Fragoula Georma, ‘Jewellery and Adornment at Akrotiri, Thera: The Evidence from the Wall Paintings and the Finds’ [35-42]

Marie-Louise Nosch, ‘From Texts to Textiles in the Aegean Bronze Age’ [43-53]

II. TEXTILES

Evanthia Papadopoulou, ‘Textile Technology in Northern Greece: Evidence for a Domestic Craft Industry from Early Bronze Age Archontiko’ [57-63]

Malgorzata Siennicka, ‘Textile Poduction in Early Helladic Tiryns’ [65-75]

Vassilis P. Petrakis, ‘Minoan’ to ‘Mycenaean’: Thoughts on the Emergence of the Knossian Textile Industry’ [77-86]

Maria Emanuela Alberti, Vassilis L. Aravantinos, Maurizio Del Freo, Ioannis Fappas, Athina Papadaki & Françoise Rougemont, ‘Textile Production in MycenaeanThebes. A First Overview’ [87-104]

Marta Guzowska, Ralf Becks & Eva Andersson Strand, “She was weaving a great Web”. Textiles in Troia’ [107-111]

Margarita Gleba & Joanne Cutler, ‘Textile Production in Bronze Age Miletos: First Observations’ [113-120]

Peter Pavúk, ‘Of Spools and Discoid Loom-Weights: Aegean-type Weaving at Troy Revisited’ [121-130]

Richard Firth, ‘The Textile Tools of Demircihüyük’ [131-138]

Sascha Mauel, ‘Summarizing Results of a New Analysis of the Textile Tools from the Bronze Age Settlement of Kastanas, Central Macedonia’ [139-144]

Joanne Cutler, ‘Ariadne’s Thread: The Adoption of Cretan Weaving Technology in the Wider Southern Aegean in the Mid-Second Millennium BC’ [145-154]

Carlos Varias, ‘The Textile Industry in the Argolid in the Late Bronze Age from the Written Sources’ [155-161]

Trevor Van Damme, ‘Reviewing the Evidence for a Bronze Age Silk Industry’ [163-169]

Brendan Burke, ‘Looking for Sea-Silk in the Bronze Age Aegean’ [171-176]

Vili Apostolakou, Thomas M. Brogan & Philip P. Betancourt, ‘The Minoan Settlement on Chryssi and its Murex Dye Industry’ [179-182]

Philip P. Betancourt, Vili Apostolakou & Thomas M. Brogan, ‘The Workshop for Making Dyes at Pefka, Crete’ [183-186]

Thomas M. Brogan, Philip P. Betancourt & Vili Apostolakou, ‘The Purple Dye Industry of Eastern Crete’ [187-192]

Helène Whittaker, ‘Some Reflections on the Use and Meaning of Colour in Dress and Adornment in the Aegean Bronze Age’ [193-198]

Pietro Militello, ‘Textile Activity in Neolithic Crete: the Evidence from Phaistos’ [199-206]

Eva Andersson Strand, ‘From Spindle Whorls and Loom Weights to Fabrics in the Bronze Age Aegean and Eastern Mediterranean’ [207-213]

Sophia Vakirtzi, ‘Akr 8794: A Miniature Artifact from Akrotiri, Thera, and the “Whorl or Bead” Question in Light of New Textile Evidence’ [215-219]

Bernice Jones, ‘The Construction and Significance of the Minoan Side-Pleated Skirt’ [221-230]

Janice L. Crowley, ‘Prestige Clothing in the Bronze Age Aegean’ [231-239]

Joanna S. Smith, ‘Tapestries in the Mediterranean Late Bronze Age’ [241-248]

Abby Lillethun, ‘Finding the Flounced Skirt (Back Apron)’ [251-254]

Valeria Lenuzza, ‘Dressing Priestly Shoulders: Suggestions from the Campstool Fresco’ [255-264]

Eleni Konstantinidi-Syvridi, ‘A Fashion Model of Mycenaean Times: The Ivory Lady from Prosymna’ [265-270]

Alessandro Greco, ‘The Background of Mycenaean Fashion: a Comparison between Near Eastern and Knossos Documents on Sheep Husbandry’ [271-278]

Joann Gulizio, ‘Textiles for the Gods? Linear B Evidence for the Use of Textiles in Religious Ceremonies’ [279-285]

Jörg Weilhartner, ‘Gender Dimorphism in the Linear A and Linear B Tablets’ [287-295]

Anne P. Chapin, ‘Do Clothes Make the Man (or Woman?): Sex, Gender, Costume, and the Aegean Color Convention’ [297-304]

David A. Warburton, ‘Economic Aspects of Textiles from the Egyptian Standpoint, in the Context of the Ancient Near East’ [305-310]

Katherina Aslanidou, ‘Some Textile Patterns from the Aegean Wall-Paintings of Tell el-Dab‘a (‘Ezbet Helmi): Preliminary Reconstructions and comparative Study’ [311-316]

Emily Catherine Egan, ‘Cut from the Same Cloth: The Textile Connection between Palace Style Jars and Knossian Wall Paintings’ [317-324]

Fritz Blakolmer, ‘Body Marks and Textile Ornaments in Aegean Iconography: Their Meaning and Symbolism’ [325-333]

Elisabetta Borgna, ‘Remarks on Female Attire of Minoan and Mycenaean Clay Figures’ [335-342]

III. JEWELLERY

Eleni Salavoura, ‘Mycenaean “Ear pick”: A Rare Metal Burial Gift, Toilette or Medical Implement?’ [345-351]

Birgitta P. Hallager, ‘Pins and Buttons in Late Minoan III Dresses?’ [353-359]

Ute Günkel-Maschek, ‘Reflections on the Symbolic Meaning of the Olive Branch as Head-Ornament in the Wall Paintings of Building Xesté 3, Akrotiri’ [361-367]

Cynthia Colburn, ‘Bodily Adornment in the Early Bronze Age Aegean and Near East’ [369-378]

Evangelos Kyriakidis, ‘How to see the Minoan Signet Rings. Transformations in Minoan Miniature Iconography’ [379-387]

Julie Hruby, ‘Identity and the Visual Identification of Seals’ [389-395]

Konstantinos Kopanias, ‘Raw Material, Exotic Jewellery or Magic Objects? The Use of Imported Near Eastern Seals in the Aegean’ [397-406]

Salvatore Vitale, ‘Dressing Up the Dead. The Significance of Late Helladic IIIB Adornments from Eleona and Langada at Kos’ [407-415]

Petya Hristova, ‘Overlaying Mycenae’s Masks in Funerary and Living Contexts of Symbolic Action: Jewellery for Body Adornment, Portraits, or Else?’ [417-423]

Judit Haas-Lebegyev, ‘Constructions of Gendered Identity through Jewellery in Early Mycenaean Greece’ [425-432]

Maia Pomadère, ‘Dressing and Adorning Children in the Aegean Bronze Age: Material and Symbolic Protections as well as Marks of an Age Group?’ [433-439]

Robert Angus K. Smith & Mary K. Dabney, ‘Children and Adornment in Mycenaean Funerary Ritual at Ayia Sotira, Nemea’ [441-446]

Lena Papazoglou-Manioudaki, ‘Gold and Ivory Objects at Mycenae and Dendra Revealed. Private Luxury and/or Insignia Dignitatis’ [447-456]

Jeffrey S. Soles, ‘The Symbolism of Certain Minoan/Mycenaean Beads from Mochlos  [457-461]

Walter Müller, ‘Concepts of Value in the Aegean Bronze Age: Some Remarks on the Use of Precious Materials for Seals and Finger Rings’ [463-469]

Anastasia Dakouri-Hild, ‘Making La Différence: The Production and Consumption of Ornaments in Late Bronze Age Boeotia’ [471-481]

Jacke Phillips, ‘On the Use and Re-Use of Jewellery Elements’ [483-491]

Dora Constantinidis & Lilian Karali, ‘Floral or Faunal? Determining Forces on Minoan and Mycenaean Jewellery Motif Selection with a GIS’ [493-499]

Magda Pieniążek, ‘Luxury and Prestige on the Edge of the Mediterranean World: Jewellery from Troia and the Northern Aegean in the 2nd Millennium B.C. and its Context’ [501-508]

Ann-Louise Schallin, ‘Mycenaean Jewellery and Adornment at Midea’ [509-513]

Thanasis J. Papadopoulos & Litsa Kontorli-Papadopoulou, ‘Specific Types of Jewellery from Late Bronze Age Tombs in Western Greece as Evidence for Social Differentiation’ [515-522]

Jane Hickman, ‘Gold and Silver Jewelry Production in Prepalatial Crete’ [523-529]

Elisabeth Völling, Nicole Reifarth & Jochen Vogl, ‘The Intercultural Context of Treasure A in Troy – Jewellery and Textiles’ [531-538]

Naya Sgouritsa, ‘Remarks on Jewels from the Mycenaean Settlement and Cemetery at Lazarides on Eastern Aegina’ [539-545]

Constantinos Paschalidis, ‘Reflections of Eternal Beauty. The Unpublished Context of a Wealthy Female Burial from Koukaki, Athens and the Occurrence of Mirrors in Mycenaean Tombs’ [547-557]

Elizabeth Shank, ‘The Jewelry worn by the Procession of Mature Women from Xeste 3, Akrotiri’ [559-565]

Helena Tomas, ‘Alleged Aegean Jewellery from the Eastern Adriatic Coast’ [567-576]

IV. ADORNMENT

Carole Gillis, ‘Color for the Dead, Status for the Living’ [579-588]

Marcia Nugent, ‘Natural Adornment by Design: Beauty and/or Function? Botanic Motifs of the Bronze Age Cycladic Islands’ [589-596]

Anna Simandiraki-Grimshaw & Fay Stevens, ‘Adorning the Body: Animals as Ornaments in Bronze Age Crete’ [597-608]

Vassiliki Pliatsika, ‘Simply Divine: the Jewellery, Dress and Body Adornment of the Mycenaean Clay Female Figures in Light of New Evidence from Mycenae’ [609-626]

Eugenio R. Luján & Alberto Bernabé, ‘Ivory and Horn Production in Mycenaean Texts’ [627-638]

Josephine Verduci, ‘Wasp-waisted Minoans: Costume, Belts and Body Modification in the Late Bronze Age Aegean’ [639-646]

Angelos Papadopoulos, ‘Dressing a Late Bronze Age Warrior: The Role of ‘Uniforms’ and Weaponry according to the Iconographical Evidence’ [647-654]

Mary Jane Cuyler, ‘Rose, Sage, Cyperus and e-ti: The Adornment of Olive Oil at the Palace of Nestor’ [655-661]

Louise A. Hitchcock, ‘Dressed to Impress: Architectural Adornment as an Exotic Marker of Elite Identity in the Eastern Mediterranean’ [663-671]

Karen Polinger Foster, ‘The Adornment of Aegean Boats’ [673-684]

Cynthia W. Shelmerdine, ‘Mycenaean Furniture and Vessels: Text and Image’ [685-695]

Thomas G. Palaima, ‘Kosmos in the Mycenaean Tablets: the Response of Mycenaean ‘Scribes’ to the Mycenaean Culture of Kosmos’ [697-703]

Annette Højen Sørensen, ‘A Toast to Diplomacy! Cups in Diplomacy and Trade: the Case of Minoica in Cyprus and the Levant, 2000-1500 BC’ [705-722]

Iphiyenia Tournavitou, ‘Fresco Decoration and Politics in a Mycenaean Palatial Centre: The Case of the West House at Mycenae’ [723-729]

Maria C. Shaw, ‘Shields made of Cloth? Interpreting a Wall Painting in the Mycenaean Palace at Pylos’ [731-737]

Olga Krzyszkowska, ‘Worn to Impress? Symbol and Status in Aegean Glyptic’ [739-747]

John G. Younger, ‘Mycenaean Collections of Seals: The Role of Blue’ [749-753]

Nancy R. Thomas, ‘Adorning with the Brush and Burin: Cross-Craft in Aegean Ivory, Fresco, and Inlaid Metal’ [755-763]

Anaya Sarpaki & Melpo Skoula, ‘Case Studies of the Ethnobotany of Adornment and Dyeing in Crete: Insights for a Dialogue with Archaeological Models in Greece’ [765-770]

Jason W. Earle, ‘Cosmetics and Cult Practices in the Bronze Age Aegean? A Case Study of Women with Red Ears’ [771-777]

Aikaterini Papanthimou & Ioannis Fappas, ‘Ceremonial Adornment and Purification Practices in Mycenaean Greece: Indigenous Developments and Near Eastern Influences’ [779-787]

Caroline Zaitoun, ‘The “Immanent” Process of Cosmetic Adornment. Similarities between Mycenaean and Egyptian Ritual Preparations’ [789-797]

Katherine M. Harrell, ‘The Weapon’s Beauty: A Reconsideration of the Ornamentation of the Shaft Grave Swords’ [799-804]

“QU’IL EST PERMIS DE RIRE …”

Thomas G. Palaima, ‘KO Ko 2010 Cloth Fragments of the Rapinewiad’ [807-810]